Mendoza: Malbec is King!
By Jessie Pray • Apr 1st, 2007 • Category: Main Feature
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The thought of Argentina evokes images of a hot, dry landscape, a big, juicy steak simmering on the parilla, and an inky-red glass of Malbec. The Malbec varietal is now vastly recognized as the crown jewel of Argentina’s wine producing regions. However, it was not so long ago that the reaction in the States would be something along the lines of “Mal-whaaat? Do you mean a merlot?” Argentina is now the largest wine producing South American country and the fifth largest in the world. Argentine exports have become wildly popular, grossing more than 431 million US dollars in 2005. At the heart of this moneymaking, Malbec-pumping industry is the region where more than seventy percent of the national production takes place: Mendoza.Argentine wine was born in the mid 16th century when a Chilean friar transplanted vine cuttings into two wine regions in Argentina, Mendoza and Cuyo. The friar himself nurtured the vines, and a tradition of winemaking in the country began. The premier varietal of the regions, Malbec, did not appear until 1868, when Professor Michel Pouget brought it over from France.
Mendoza is synonymous with Malbec, and for good reason. Malbec, under many aliases, was one of the six grapes traditionally used in the blending of red Bordeaux wines. Known for being a blending grape, it rarely had the star power of a headlining varietal. The climate in France was all wrong for the underdog Malbec, it’s a thin-skinned grape that requires lots of sun exposure and heat to reach full maturity and is also highly susceptible to frost. It requires well-irrigated and well-drained soils as it has a tendency to rot in cool and wet conditions. The finicky grape found its true home in Argentina due to the absolutely perfect weather there. Argentina’s hot, dry climate offers Malbec grapes the soil to make its wines sing. Because the weather is often so dry, winemakers in the region irrigate the land with icy water melting from the Andes’ peaks, giving them the advantage of precise control of hydration levels at the vines.Malbec is a black, mellow grape with large fruit, producing wines of an inky red or violet color. When done right, its wines are thick with the aromas of red fruit, plums, coffee, and chocolate. Earthy, dark, and generally tannic, Malbec tastes like a black fruit punch begging to be eaten with steak (for which Argentina is famous). The flavor and body are comparable to a middle ground between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which is also why it makes such a fantastic blending grape. Ah, Malbec. Team player and solo star!
So, why haven’t you heard about Malbec, or Mendoza for that matter? Argentina has been producing wine for centuries, however, up until the 1980s most of it was simple table wine made for local consumption. In the 70s, those wild and crazy Argentines were packing away 26 gallons of their own wine per person, per year! To put that in perspective, Americans consume a paltry one to two gallons per year. Who knew the South Americans could party so much harder than their northern counterparts?It wasn’t until the 1980s that Argentina decided to amp up their wine quality. Bad rootstock was yanked, new vines planted, and a brand new focus was shone on high quality production. Inspired by the success of Australian and Californian wines in the international export market, Argentina threw its hat in the ring. A formidable competitor, Argentina has been steadily rising popularity since the 1990s. Wines that are being exported to the states now tend to be very high quality for an extremely low price.
Argentine wine, particularly its beloved Malbec, is (at its best) rich, deep, complex, and intensely flavorful. You have no choice but to be reminded of the hot, sunny landscape in which these grapes mature. Perhaps it is the nature of Argentine winemakers themselves that inspire such richness. Carlos Baccaro, a winemaker at the Salentein Bodega told us, “The vines are much like women. You do not need to understand them, you only need to love them”. If the outcome is anything like your Primus Malbec, Mr. Baccaro, you must make your lady very happy.
Malbec is a passionate wine for people with less-than-deep pockets. Can’t afford a vacation? Don’t worry- you can create your own Argentina on a sunny day. Grab a great bottle, a decent steak, and some veggies, and stay home at the grill. One sip, and you’ll be transported to Mendoza.
Tips for Touring Mendoza
Thanks to a wonderful currency exchange rate from Argentine pesos to American dollars, touring Mendoza can be remarkably cheap. If you can ante up for the plane ticket, expect to be able to drink and eat like a king on mere dollars. Most Bodegas in Mendoza will gladly open their doors for you, give a tour of the winery, and even let you sample the goods for free. Here are some tips for getting your foot in the door and your lips under the barrel:Do your homework: Mendoza Valley is quite spread out. It would be in your best interest to research which Bodegas you absolutely cannot live without touring and plan to visit other wineries in the area. E-mail before you even leave the country to make reservations and gain connections. Be persistent and genuine about your interest in their Bodega. Most Bodegas are closed on Sunday and some for the entire weekend.
Organize your Schedule: Make sure you have enough time to travel, tour, and taste to your heart’s content. Keep in mind that tours generally last between 45 minutes and an hour and that parts of the Uca Valley can be more than an hour outside of the city of Mendoza.
Rent a Car: Like we previously mentioned, Mendoza Valley is spread out. Rent a car and bring a good map. If possible, get a prepaid cell phone. It will come in handy when you are relentlessly lost on a dusty highway and late for a one-of-a-kind barrel tasting at Cobos. Mendoza Valley is extremely arid and desert-like, so if you plan on touring during the summer (our winter) we highly suggest getting a car with AC. A cool climate inside your car helps to quell the desire to attack your traveling companions (no matter how lost or late you may be).Bring Cash: Pesos, that is. Wineries want to sell you their stuff. That is, if you have the dinero. Most of the time, buying direct from the Bodega can score you a lower price or a hard to get bottle. Some Bodegas only accept cash payments so tuck a hundred pesos (a little over thirty dollars) in your back pocket, just in case you taste something you can’t pass up.
Don’t get drunk: Tasting luncheons, incredible bottles, and mouth-dropping views of the Andes can seduce you into imbibing slightly more than you expected to while you were “tasting”. The blinding heat of the summertime doesn’t help. Drink plenty o’ water, be responsible, and save the drunken debauchery for the Mendoza nightlife.
Be Adventurous: There is so much to do in Mendoza. Between Bodega tours, go horseback riding, rafting, trekking, or (in the winter season) skiing in the Andes. Mix up your vigorous tasting schedule with some adventure sports. The outings are extremely affordable and allow you to experience the country that produces some of the best wine in the world.
