The Second Glass

Apropos of last week’s post on the Plan Pegau, I decided to do a little follow-up on Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the leading appellation of the southern Rhone. This region was dubbed “the Pope’s new house or castle” in the 14th century when then Clement V relocated the official Papal residences from Rome to Avignon. Formerly an archbishop of Bordeaux, Chateau Pape-Clement is named after him as well. Benedict, start taking some notes; you could learn a thing or two.

There are a number of remarkable idiosyncracies about this region. All wines that are estate bottles are embossed with the papal coat of arms. Qaulity control rules instituted by local producer Baron Le Roy of Chateau Fortia in 1923 paved the way for France’s Apellation d’Origine Controlee, the system of laws that dictate the production of wine and certain foods. Wines of this region boast the lowest mandated yields, 35 hl/hectare (thats 368 gallons per acre to you and me) of any of the french apellations and also the highest minimum level of alcohol, 12.5%. The resulting wines are concentrated, rich and dense; the interplay of earthy, fruity, spicy and gamey flavors create a pour that is truly dynamic. In the words of writer award-winning wine educator Karen MacNeill, they are “the wine equivalent of a primal scream.”

According to the AOC laws, there are thirteen varietals permitted in Chateauneuf-du-Pape blends. Every producer has their own secret recipe, based primarily on the ripe and rich Grenache Rounding out the roster of eight red grapes, are peppery Syrah, musky Mouvedre, silky Cinsault, and that quartet of master-minglers of Muscardin, Counnoise, Vaccarese, and Teret Noir.

Like some Italian Appellations, producers in this region are also allowed to use white grapes in the mix. In the red blends they lend a levity in both texture and flavors. They are also used on their own to create some incredible whites; full-bodied, fruity and floral, with just enough acidity to provide a perfectly balanced beverage. As delicious as they can be, however, they account for only 3% of production. the primary varietal in the white blends is, naturally, Grenache Blanc, but there is also freshly-scrubbed Clairette, Bourboulenc, with its bristling acidity, aroma-rich Rousanne, and that dynamic duo Picpoul and Picardon. Yes, you will be quizzed on this later, so study up.

For more on the beauty of wine blends, from both the Old World and New, check out “The Local’s Blog,” based out of Geyserville, California.