The Second Glass

Domaine de L’Ameillaud is a small, family-owned estate in the Province of Vaucluse. I first became acquainted with this estate 2 years ago after trying their well-talked about Vin de Pays wine titled after the Province, “Vaucluse.” It was written up by a local wine writer as one of the values of the year. Since the L’Ameillaud label is sold by one of my good friends in the business, it was easy enough to get a sample bottle. And while tasting the wine together, she informed me of the family’s move toward sustainable growing practices.

“Until recent times, we sustained production levels through regular use of chemical fertilizers but today, whilst recognizing the need to guarantee the replacement of certain elements consumed by vines, more attention is paid to the general environment in which the plants grow. A change to organic fertilizers improves both the texture and structure of the soil and vines benefit fully from this.”

The wine for the price truly was fantastic; an easy but well-structured food wine. It was a simple decision to support the wine based just on this. That the viticulture was organic, and winery practices clean made for a more lusty promotion of this little gem. So I bought a case for home, and sold copious amounts at the store. It’s long gone now, but its sister, the 2005 Cotes du Rhone will happily take its place as House Red.

A classic take on the Rhone blend, this pretty 2005 is 70% grenache, 20% carignan & 10% syrah. In the nose, you get ripe, juicy plum, fresh pomegranate, creamy raspberry, grilled fennel, clove, ink-dipped slate, and wet chalk. Seductive and earthy, this little blend is quite lively and layered considering its modest price tag. On the palate, a little geology; chalky fossils and mineral-rich clay beds come to mind. The fruit is round, and buoyant among the infrastructure of mineral, and overtones of Mediterranean spice. A festive fruit, with cantillating cranberry, and spiced plums. The finish is like a crescendo, quick and vibrant; sharing saffron, clove, thyme and bergamot, before leaving the palate.

This is a wine to buy in quantity while it is available: The estate’s viticulture and land promotes great fruit already, and we all know 2005 was a stellar vintage most everywhere, but especially in France. L’Ameillaud will pair well with the richness and spice of holiday fare, but can also be savored year-round for its fruity freshness and elegant weight.